By Jane Milojevic
Photos: InSight Fotographics

Driving along Bell's Line of Road (NSW), heading west through Kurajong, Lithgow, Kandos and Rylstone, a crisp dawn gives way to the promise of a beautiful day. Rustic homes nestle in rolling hills, plaited with ribbons of mist and divided by fields dotted with bales of hay. Shedding gums guard the borders and reflect the golden morning light. We arrive in Mudgee in time to catch the start of the Farmer's Market held in the grounds of St Mary's Catholic Church. The market bustles as greetings are exchanged and visitors are invited to sample the produce of the region - seasonal fruits including peaches and Muscat grapes, plump olives with tapenades and tasty oils, several varieties of verjuice to enhance culinary endeavours and jams to cheer up the most serious of taste buds. Get chatting to the stallholders and you'll hear stories as interesting as the produce. Like Marilyn, who came from India to Australia to make Western-style country music. Alas, this style of music is not greatly enhanced by an Indian accent so, 33 years and two restaurants later, Marilyn is happy at the Mudgee Farmers Market selling pickles she exports from Mudgee to India. There is evidence of a rich history in the Mudgee region since explorers, Blaxland, Wentworth and Lawson, found themselves on the other side of the mountain, and another, unrelated Lawson - Henry - began writing poetry. While Grenfell will lay claim to being the birthplace of Henry Lawson, the protectors of history in the Mudgee Region will let you in on the secret that he was in fact conceived, and spent most of his formative years, under a Mudgee region sun. But, it is Mudgee that lays claim to the annual Elliot Rocke Estate Mudfest, an international short film festival that mimics the Australian film festival, Tropfest, and is held in Mudgee. (What else would it be called?) Despite the fact that mention of "Rocke" and "Mud" tends to conjure up visions of half naked bodies sliding around in mud accompanied by loud strains of rock music, the locals and visitors alike are very well behaved. There is not a skerrick of mud to be found and the 14 short films from 10 different countries are extremely entertaining, the food and the wine from the hosting winery are superb. Little wonder the locals look forward to Mudfest each year and attendance has grown ten-fold since it began four years ago when just 90 people packed into the Butcher Shop Cafe. The next day, Robert Stein Winery hosts a celebration of a different sort, the Footcrush Feast. Rejoicing in the art of winemaking, guests are invited to enjoy a sumptuous banquet featuring local produce and prepared by Tricia Hennessy of Wild Oats Cafe. Lunch includes a tour through the vineyard and a sample of traditional winemaking, from the picking to the 'plunging', barrel tasting to crushing. The latter is an exhilarating experience and provides a better foot massage and moisturising treatment than can be found at any day spa. An entertaining poetry reading and enactment (who else but Henry!) by a local councilman, Michael Williams, has diners in gales of laughter and rounds off an afternoon of good food, excellent wines and genuine country hospitality. The Mudgee region's hospitality is extended through a broad range of accommodation providers offering a choice of experiences from motel to country pub, boutique hotel to B & B, self contained cottages to caravan parks. We enjoyed a taste of modern country living at the luxurious Wombadah Guesthouse with an impeccably decorated kingsize bedroom and breathtaking views over surrounding hills, local vineyards and a private olive grove. Hosts, Kaye and Ray Whitfield, were gracious and hospitable, and have impeccable taste in music as well as an extensive knowledge of local wineries and places of interest. Very helpful when time is also a luxury. Time permitting, a stop at Lue Pottery, 28 km from Mudgee, is an absolute must. All clays are dug locally and processed on the premises and potter Des Howard takes little coaxing to provide a tour of the workshop, a basic lesson in chemistry and some homespun philosophies on life. The joy of listening to Des is enhanced by a display of pottery that is not only serviceable, but exquisitely beautiful. Heading home at the end of a weekend, there was barely time to scratch the surface of all that the Mudgee region has to offer - superb galleries, captivating museums; heritage buildings steeped in history, wineries, spectacular scenery, national parks and nature reserves where you can fish, canoe, hike, swim, camp and bird watch. The list goes on ... For further information on what to do, upcoming events and planned packages to the area, visit www.visitmudgeeregion.com.au

CONTACTS
Mudgee Region Tourism Inc, 84 Market Street, Mudgee
Ph: (02) 6372 1020
John Broadley, President Mudgee Historical Society Inc
Ph: 0429 708 218 will run historic walks through Mudgee on request Wombadah Guesthouse, 46 Tierney Lane, Mudgee
Ph: (02) 6373 3176 Contact: Ray & Kaye Whitfield www.wombadah.com.au